SWELL AND STORM CHARACTERISTICS FROM COASTAL WAVE RECORDS

Swell Propagation and Nearshore Wave Climate

Considerable coastal infrastructure has been developed in Chile over the last two decades, and the impetus for this study was based on concerns with the lack of consistency utilized in the coastal engineering design process, beginning with, but not limited to, the definition of the wave conditions. The available wave records in Chile are of very limited duration, thus many designers rely on a v...

Vulnerability of Coastal Communities from Storm Surge and Flood Disasters

Disasters in the form of coastal storms and hurricanes can be very destructive. Preparing for anticipated effects of such disasters can help reduce the public health and economic burden. Identifying vulnerable population groups can help prioritize resources for the most needed communities. This paper presents a quantitative framework for vulnerability measurement that incorporates both socioeco...

Modeling Swell, High Frequency Spreading and Wave Breaking

I wish to develop the phenomenological diffusion model of interaction of gravitational waves on water surface in presence of wind and viscosity. Motivation for development of such a model is the fact that numerical solvers based on Hasselmann kinetic equation for waves are time-consuming and hardly can be used for practical purposes. Numerical solver based on the diffusion model is expected to ...

Coastal storm characterization and morphological impacts on sandy coasts

The present work deals with storm classification, using the Storm Power Index, and beach morphological response to storm events in the Gulf of Cadiz (SW Spain). Over the 1958–2001 period, 377 events divided into five classes ranging from ‘weak’ to ‘extreme’ were characterized. Classes I (weak) and II (moderate) accounted for 60% and 23% of events, respectively. Class III (significant), were 9% ...

Suspended Particle Characteristics in Storm Runoff from Urban Impervious Surfaces